So, it's been a while since I've written. It's been on my list of things to do, but for some reason it always seems to take the back burner. I've been trying to think of interesting things to tell you, but the truth is that it's been hard. It seems that I've reached that point in my journey where I've finally come to find some sense of normalcy, what seemed so new and interesting when I first got here has now just become my life.

Work continues to be a challenge in the best of ways. Everyday is a different group of teachers in a different community, each with their own opinions and ways of doing things. I'm starting them off easy, each kid in school needs their own toothbrush and paste, a towel, a palangana (little plastic cup for the pila to get water), and hand soap. So far so good, all of my schools are starting to have their kids brush their teeth after snack ect. Some schools are more proficient than others, but like I said, each group is distinct with varying levels of energy.

I came the realization this weekend that I work a lot. I know what you're thinking, 'Whatever Sam,' but the truth is that even when I'm not at a school I'm in the work mentality. Walking down the street greeting people on my way to buy my egg for dinner, sitting in my house chatting with Doña Maria, going for a run in la labor, the only place that I can really exhale is in my room (which at the moment looks like a craft supply store exploded in there thanks to all the posters I make for my workshops in the schools). Rereading that makes it seem like I'm complaining, but I'm not. It's just a change that I'm still getting used to, all of the attention and this constant need to have my game face on. I'm already starting to love the influence I have here and the respect that I've been able to earn.

On that note, did I tell you my title here? Licenciada Samanta Boss. So official, right? I still feel really uncomfortable everytime people use it's the proper way to address someone who has graduated university, a common title in the states (BA). Also they use official stamps here. Yup, stamps. I haven't gone that far yet, but heck, why not. I do need to work on making my signature look more like a work of art than my name.

Funny stories of the week:

-I almost burnt off my eyebrows trying to light the stove to boil my plantain... Thank god I survived eyebrows intact.

-Yesterday at my art class I thought our teacher said that we need to draw two big hands for our homework, I clarified because it seemed strange. Nope, two mangos.

-People still think I'm Doña Maria's daughter-in-law... I don't mind, perhaps it will help to keep the harassment down.

-Started playing games with the kids at the schools when I finish my work! Friday I split open my toe playing soccer with some fifth graders (was playing barefoot because I couldn't run in my flats). Result: walking a little funny and the teachers got a good laugh. But we won.

-I started K'iche classes! Not really a funny story but rather good news...

Well, well, well, what a week!

I've been running around like a headless chicken (which is a bit of a sour simile given the circumstances). Friday was one of my best days here in Guate. I visited my favorite school, the place just has an energy that makes me feel so alive (includes 20 minutes of getting kisses from the kids)! The school had an assembly with an 'acto civico' about trees and I got to launch a recycling program there. Side note: Guatemala has a beautiful national anthem, but it's literally 15 minutes long with like six verses. Each classroom now has a container for inorganic trash and next week we're adding cornflakes boxes for paper. The funny thing was that I thought it'd be good to present it as a competition between classes. Good motivation right? WRONG! At snacktime all the kids were buying tons of potato chip-like things so they could add it to their container. The principal and I just laughed it off but it just goes to show that sometimes even the best intentions can do harm.

Then in the afternoon at a different school I was a judge for a beauty paegent. Yikes. The girls were scored in four areas: athletic outfit, traditional outfit, speech and a dance. Lord help me. Yes, there were tears. Each school has one girl that will represent them in a district wide contest. Next Friday the teachers have a beauty paegent (they tried to talk me into participating reassuring me that I'd be a sure win). In other words, Guatemalans love beauty contests and this American cannot stand them.

Yesterday I did the unthinkable and went to Walmart. Evil place. I honestly felt like I was back in the states. What did this PCV buy? Couscous. And Campbells tomato soup. And an organizer for my folders (oh how I love the school supply aisle). And binder clips. And peanut butter (JIF extra crunchy to be exact). In my defense, all of the grocery stores in Xela are owned by Walmart, so much for my boycott.

Saturdays are my cleaning days. I sweep my floor and you would not believe the quantity of dirt that gets in there. It blows my mind. I also have to dust off my desk, so much dirt. Right now I'm doing my weekly load of laundry; crucial to do it early because the rain comes in the afternoon and the clothes will never dry.

No pictures, the cord to connect my camera was unbelievably expensive so my lovely mother is sending it. Working on grant proposals for infrastructure (sinks) at a few of my schools. It is kind of a bummer because the schools that need it most weren't interested in filling out the application, and I don't feel that I'm here to force them to do it if they don't want to. The organization is called 'Agua para la Salud' and they partner with Rotary Intl and PC here in Guate, it's a great opportunity to get more faucets so the kids have room to wash their hands and brush their teeth. Most schools have only one faucet, just a different mentality with construction here and the limit of resources.

Campaign season has officially started here in Almolonga... Just about every night a political party has a parade with tons of people and lots of fireworks. There are three main parties here and local politics is super important (strange considering I have no idea what mayors really do in the US, but here they control a lot of money for projects).

Well that's my life, random and busy for the moment...

rough week.

lots of miscommunication and lack of communication that involved me trekking out to schools where there was no principal to be found.

and what can i do? get mad? get lazy? get even? laugh. just laugh. and enjoy the views.

because after all, the sun rose this morning.

but you know what helps? tofu. yes, tofu is the food of the gods (preferably in the sandwich form from Artesiano, an awesome bakery in Xela).

so it's a new day, and according to our calendars here, a new week, and it is fresh. and full of possibility.

'For what human ill does not dawn seem to be an alleviation?' -Thornton Wilder

p.s. the chicks died. i buried them out back under the lemon tree with a rose, my bare hands and a machete.

BIG BIG news!

I am the proud mother hen of two adorable chicks! My host sister and I decided on Saturday at the market that we HAD to get some (Q1 each or around 15 US cents) and botabing, botabang, chickens in my life... The one I picked out is yellow and I named her Luna. My host sister, Elisa, picked out a purple one (that's right folks, purple) and subsecquently named her Violeta. They lived in a cardboard box in my room mostly, but I take them upstairs to soak in the sun on the patio. For those of you who have been fooled before by my chicken tricks, I must assure you that this is 100% for real (confirmation can be provided by request from my family as they heard the chicks via skype)...

Unfortunately I was afraid that Violeta wasn't going to make it when this morning she looked just about dead but was still breathing. I held her over my little burner for about an hour and then had to go work, aka some school visits I had scheduled. And when I got home around 1pm, she really looked dead but alas I've been watching her all afternoon and forcing her to drink water and she seems to have perked up a little. I believe that she's going to pull through-that little purple people eater.

So while I was home nursing my chickens back to health, I made myself a fabulous lunch. This weekend I hit up the supermarket and stocked up on spices and specialty items. I made a lentil stew today with fresh carrots the size of a forearm, onion, tomatoes, cumin, and garlic. Then I got really domestic and decided to finally try making banana bread. I know what you're thinking, well geez that ain't no thang. But, I made it WITHOUT AN OVEN! Now even the expert baker will admit that takes a little bit of skill. Wondering how it works? A Peace Corps Oven: simply take a comal (like a large skillet without the rims, we use it for making tortillas) and put an empty can of tuna filled with water in the middle, over your burner, then place your cake pan with delicious dough on top of the can and cover the whole thing with a big pot put upside down. 50 minutes later you will have a wonderful smelling kitchen and delectible bread to accomany your afternoon cafecito. Honestly though, I'm pretty shocked that it turned out so well. It will definately be my signature dish here in Guatemala for repaying those amazing neighboors for their fresh spinach.

If we always had everything we needed, we'd never get to be creative!

Yesterday I got to conference call skype with my family who is currently displaced all over the world. It was pretty awesome. And come to mention it, they're pretty awesome too.

Speaking of technology: I would formally like to apologize for my butchering of the Queen's English, but my spellcheck here only picks up Spanish... sigh, I am incompetent and hence dependent on technology. But I could start writing this blog in Spanish if that was preferred by my readers

p.s. get excited. I am on the hunt for a cable to connect my camera to the compu this week so pictures are on the way

Last year I went to see my doctor because I thought I was bipolar. You see, I was having these incredible instances of extreme highs and lows. She sat patiently as I explained how I was feeling, she asked me questions about my sleep patterns, and after a half an hour we determined that I was in fact, not bipolar. But I remember at the end of the appointment expressing my disappointment because I was hoping for some sort of medication that could make my days smooth, not these ridiculous emotional rollarcoasters. She smiled and said, 'But Sam, life's ups and downs are what make it worth living'.

Today was one of those breakthrough kind of days. A day when you just exhale and can't believe life is so good. Like a kid who ate half a cake covered in giant icing flowers. The emotional high of all emotional highs.

First, I finished visiting my last school! Let the real work begin...

Second, I was busy today. I like being busy.

Third, I had an amazing meeting with two of my school principals. They share the same building (one school in the morning and one in the afternoon) but they've never collaborated on anything before (they don't share squat). So I was able to get them together with representatives from their PTA groups to talk about the healthy schools project. They were so into it, then and there we sat down to type up a petition to the mayor's office for the funds to build a handwashing station that would benefit both groups. That's 600 kids total. And just like that, I felt like in such a small way as a coordinator/community organizer, I made a little difference today.

Forth, more spinach.

Fifth, the rainy season started. I like rain.


Dr. Cobb, you were right.




P.S. Happy Belated Mothers Day (it was yesterday here in Guatemala, May 10)... A special shout out to my beautiful mamacita but also to all the wonderful women in my life who have also supported me through said highs and lows.

P.S.S. Happy Birthday to my awesome nephew Gavin! The poor boy probably hasn't gotten my card yet (the epic line: 'but it's in the mail') and I was stuck in meetings all day unable to call him... Feliz Cumple Chico!

In an effort to become more regular with these blog posts I thought that I might explain for you, as well as for myself, why I am bothering to even have a blog at all. Peace Corps has a list of three goals, one of which is helping promote a better understanding of other peoples (in my case, Guatemalans) to Americans. Thus, the blog. But how do I make you see how generous the people here are, how do I show you what it's like in this beautiful little valley nestled away in the mountains of Central America?

You see, before coming to Guatemala I had these lofty and rather thoreauian ideas of leaving technology and to put it more bluntly, civilization behind. I imagined living in a shack somewhere, boiling my water, killing big bugs, hiking miles up mountains to reach small isolated communities. And it was impossibly archaic for me to think that way. It was ignorant and imperialistic. My ideals of leaving the 'modern' world behind and finding a more simple lifestyle are now laughable. I've been learning, slowly but surely that if anything is important to the development of Guatemala, it's technology.

I am guilty of taking for granted my computer literacy. So many people, and considering my line of work, children, are not equipped with the skill set to look for information. As simple as that. The internet has allowed us to become experts in looking for information. But kids who don't have the opportunity to learn how to utilize that resource are, for lack of a better phrase, left in the dust. It seems so snobbish now that I was so disgusted by technology. Sure there is such a thing as too much, but the reality is, the internet has opened up doors, and windows, some flies may get in but either way people have a right to access all of that info.

With that in mind, I am determined to use this tool to show you this little piece of the world with hopes that you might learn with me all about the customs, traditions, work, economy and life here in Almolonga (and of course my funny stories too)...

Okay, so enough boring you... Here's a run down of the past two weeks:

-One more school to go on my initial visits, I'm up to 15 total! After that, I go back to each one to do a priliminary diagnostic and then start workshops with the teachers on what is a healthy school.
-I went to a women's group meeting hosted by the Office of Women that is a part of our Muni (mayor's office). I thought that we were going to learn to make ham (jamon) but when we started pour loads of sulfuric carbonate into the mix I realized we were making soap (jabon). Classic.
-One of my school principals, Rosa, invited me to her house yesterday. She has four awesome kids and I loved hanging out with all of them (we danced to Katy Perry, Taylor Swift and the Jonas Brothers). Already set to go back next weekend.
-I found and then lost a K'iche teacher. The hunt continues.
-Ate myself sick last Saturday. To the point that I spent all Sunday curled up in bed with bottles of gatorade. Note to self: I do not have the self control to shell peanuts without eating them. STAY AWAY FROM PEANUTS.
-Made a serious scheduling error with an important Peace Corps meeting. I banged my head on a rock a few times and then went to the nearest bookstore to buy a new agenda and avoid any future problems.
-Saturday art class is going well. I got to buy a fancyshmancy pencil for shading, felt pretty special. The other ten year old girls in the class have taken a liking to me, feeling doubly special.
-Went to a slow foods festival with my friend Andrea who works for Art Corps. We ate tofu. score!
-Washed my bedding at Doña Maria's request. Grandma would be proud!
-Doña Cata gave me a bunch of spinach from her land! Delicious
-Taught Chepe, 13 year old son of Doña Cata, how to use email.
-Bought purple lilies at the market on Saturday, while walking home some guy yelled 'You're as beautiful as the flowers you hold' (in Spanish of course). I've started confronting such guys with a firm handshake and explaining that I'm living and working here. But for some reason, I just kept thinking, 'we're only as beautiful as the flowers we hold'. Kind of deep, right? My flowers, I hope, will be my schools and my warmth. So go out there. Find something beautiful and hold onto it and spread it around!

Whew! Recovering from a wonderful Semana Santa (Holy Week) here in Guatemala...

The strike as officially ended, which is great (especially considering that the teachers were successful in getting the government to follow through on the funding issues)! But last week was semana santa, or in American, spring break for most of the country. The celebrations are very different to what we're used to in the U.S., but still vary a lot based on family. Starting on Thursday the Catholics held processions through Almolonga. Imagine a parade float (or a gigantic coffin) with around forty pall-bearers all carrying a intricate statue of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. It was really amazing, sensory overload, lots of insense and music. But as I said, this is a Catholic event and the Evangelicals celebrate only Resurrection Sunday here in the form of attending their churches.

Poetic Moment of the Week: On Good Friday I went out to take pictures of the alfombras (rugs) that people make in the streets using flower petals (the above is one from Antigua, but here in Almolonga they were more simple but still beautiful). So, it's about to start to storm but I really wanted those pictures so I threw on a blue scarf to cover my head and ran out the door. On the way, two forth grade girls who attend one of my schools stopped me and wanted to accompany me. Their names? Maria and Magdalena. There I was, running through the streets with little Mary and Magdalene holding my hands and my blue scarf blowing as the thunder rumbled and the rain remembered a similar scene some years ago...

My family had a large lunch on holy Thursday: fried fish, mayo salad, pasta, tomale, and hot sause of course! It was such a great feeling to sit all together and share a meal, something that I really value (no matter where in the world I find myself). It was a day of laughing in the kitchen, my amazing culinary skills cause quite a stir (especially lighting the gas stove)! My host family is just so warm and kind, I've never felt such a connection outside of the U.S. before over so sort a time!

Still on the hunt for a K'iche teacher... But I'm more determined than ever. I tend to really resent English and now it's morphing to resenting Spanish too. You see the thing is that I hate that there are so few options for learning languages in general. English, Spanish, French, Mandrin, German? There are thousands of languages out there, and the more we focus on the biggies, the more we lose the amazing diversity of culture on this planet. (I am very thankful that I've had the opportunity to learn Spanish in my life, don't get me wrong, but I'm just beginning to understand how much is out in this world of ours, that's all).

I went to Lake Atiklan for a couple of days this week! Stunning and delightful to get to know a new part of the country... But it was accompanied with lots of internal conflict surrounding the tourism industry. Panajachel is a little tourist trap right on the lake and I just kept thinking about my number one development rule: First, DO NO HARM. It's still up for debate whether the mass influx of tourists is damaging the local culture and creating a dependency both economically and socially. Just thought I'd share what I've had cooking on the back burner in this brain of mine.

p.s. really all, your overwhelming response to the previous entry blew me away... so much for opening a forum for participatory discussion here!

So, many of you have heard horror stories originating here in Guatemala. From enormous sinkholes, to landslides, to assinations, to narcotrafficking, to the biggie: corruption. Now, I'm not here to tell you that these reports are untrue, but rather to remind you that there is so much more to Guatemala than what the western media portrays. That being said, a fantastic article was just published by The New Yorker on April 4th that peels back the layers of deception that snake around politics here in Guatemala. The piece is called 'A Murder Foretold' by David Grann and I cannot urge you enough to give it a read (and let me know what you think!)... Here's a little teaser: Rodrigo Rosenberg knew that he was about to die. It wasn’t because he was approaching old age—he was only forty-eight. Nor had he been diagnosed with a fatal illness; an avid bike rider, he was in perfect health. Rather, Rosenberg, a highly respected corporate attorney in Guatemala, was certain that he was going to be assassinated.

some pictures for your enjoyment! Visiting a coffee plantation during training with the lovely Elvira, our Spanish/culture instructor.

The swearing-in ceremony at the Ambassador's residence (I took the same oath as the military, foreign service and more or less the president)

I, Samantha Boss do solemly swear that I will support and defend the Constitution of the United States of America against all enemies, domestic or foreign, that I take this obligation freely. And without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion. And that I will well and faithfully discharge my duties in the Peace Corps, so help me God.

Cooking up a storm for our host families at the end of training (pictured: Meredith Burns)

Our swear-in ceremony and celebration of the 50th Anniversary of Peace Corps made it on the front page of Prensa Libre (Guate's leading paper)... no biggie

¿Qué honda mucho? Things here are going really well. And by ‘really well’, I mean pretty slow. As it turns out, there is a national teachers strike so classes are suspended until further notice (and Semana Santa starts in a week so it might be two weeks with no school). What do the teachers want? Some of them haven’t been paid yet this year (not the case here in Almolonga and Zunil), but in general the government has failed to provide the schools with the resources (aka mula) that it said it would. For example, at public schools each child is supposed to receive a snack, which is a rather important component of the childrens daily nutritional intake considering that Guatemala has an extremely high rate of chronic malnutrition. But the reality is that the government only gives the schools enough money for ten days worth of snack per month (to say the least insuffiecient). Batabing batabang, the teachers went on strike. So any intuitive reader would then ask,’Well what is this PCV (peace corps volunteer) been doing with all her time, especially considering she’s doing it with US tax dollars?’ That is a fine question indeed my dear reader, so here it goes… I’ve been trying my darndest to meet as many people as humanly possible. Walking around with seemingly no where to go has become my new pastime. People here are big greeters, and it’s considered pretty rude not to say good morning/afternoon/evening when walking down the street. I really love this, it makes the community feel very connected and has been a wonderful way for me to meet people. I was able to meet with the Health Centers here (there’s one in Almolonga and another in Zunil), the people who work there are awesome and we’re going to be collaborating in the schools and the community focusing on things such as malnutrition, diarrhea and HIV/AIDS. I also went to visit a womens co-op in Zunil that sells all sorts of beautiful handicrafts. Yesterday I ventured to the swimming pool (owned and operated by the agricultural co-op here in Almolonga), went for a dip and read under the palm trees for the afternoon. Today was an adventure… You see, Almolongueños have an awesome cultural practice of bathing in Los Baños, a little pueblo about 10 minutes down the road. The pueblo has about 8 different buildings that offer prívate romos where for a mere Q15 (a little less than $2) one can enjoy the thermal water and bathe for an hour. Now while you might be imagining a beautiful eddifice with tropical flowers and birds and pristine tile, hahaha do not be fooled! I’m talking rustic (or as my Lonely Planet Travel Guide says, ‘decrepit’), yes in a romanticized way it’s beautiful but really it’s a small room with brown looking tile (that was once white or blue, who knows), a single lightbulb, some nails in the wall to hang your towel and PCV piping to bring in that amazingly hot water. You with me? Everyone here goes at least once a week and most of the houses don’t have showers because it’s not really necessary when people prefer Los Baños to a lousy cold shower in their house. So, I knew that I had to try it out and given my current predicament of excess of time, this morning I decided was the day. And it did not disappoint! The water is amazing, not scalding hot but rather therapudic. My host mom says that the mornings are the best because there aren’t that many people. Sunday is the big day, everyone wants to be squeaky clean for the upcoming week. In other news, on Saturday at the market I bought a mat woven out of some sort of leaves which is serving as a rug in my room. I also got a half hour tutorial as to how to use a washing machine (courtesy of my host dad). Don’t get me wrong, I’m ecstatic to have a washing machine in the house, but having to stand on a plank of wood while iniciating the cycle to ensure my not getting electricuted made me a little less ecstatic. But hey, such is life. Last week I went to a Guatemalan PTA meeting at one of my schools which was entirely in K’iche, so I’m working hard to try and find a teacher to get some formal instruction on the language. I’ve bought a sketchbook and have been writing and drawing more. For some reason the leading guess for my présense in Almolonga is that I apparently married someone here. I get a good laugh out of it each time and it’s a great conversation starter to talk about my work here in the schools. At home my host family affectionally has dubbed me the ‘nuera’ or daughter-in-law, and we love to joke about how I wouldn’t last a minute as a Guatemalan daughter-in-law given the lobsided shapes of my tortillas. I wrote in my journal this week, ‘I just feel so alive here, there’s really no other way to describe it. Alive’. So that’s my word of encouragement to you this week, do something that makes you feel alive…